Ramblings of a Monkeygirl I laughed, I cried, I fell down…

Summer Daytrips to Sierra Granite

During the winter season, if my husband and I go up to the slopes to ski/board (he skis, I board), it's usually just for a day trip. Although a lot of people seem to think a day trip from the south Bay Area to the Sierras is too hard, we’re pretty used to the drive, and spring road conditions make it downright easy.  It recently dawned on me that I could do the same sort of trips in summer/fall for climbing – yes, I know…duh, right? In typical me fashion, I launched, or maybe more exploded, into my new plan at the first chance that presented itself, and I ended up making day trips to Tuolumne and Donner Pass within the same week.

Tuolumne Meadows, July 14, 2009.

Now, say what you will about Twitter, but I am lucky enough to be part of a great community of climbers online who share adventures and jokes, support each other through injuries, lust after gear together, and swap beta on crags.  Through this group I reconnected with Eileen (@rockgrrl), whom I met seven years ago under truly geeky, non-climbing related circumstances.  She recently invited me to meet her in Tuolumne Meadows while she was on a 9 day trip with friends.  After about 2 seconds of hesitation, I told her I’d take the day off work on Tuesday and come up.

I was out the door by 4:15 am with multiple episodes of Dirtbag Diaries to keep me company, and I was at the Tuolumne Meadows Campground by 8:30. I met Eileen and her friends, Peter, Jamie, Cliff and Vina, and we spent a leisurely morning chatting, checking out what gear I had, and perusing the topos of West Crack on DAFF Dome. When we finally got to the crag, we discovered we’d have to wait for two groups ahead of us.  We sat back in the sun for an hour or so until Peter and Jamie headed up West Crack (they were planning on breaking off in the second pitch to head out on the traverse of Blown Away).

Eventually Eileen and I got on the wall, with her leading the first pitch.  The first move was a burly, bouldery move with the potential to bounce off the starting ledge down another 20 or so feet to the ground if you didn’t stick it.  My head and body weren’t fully in the game yet, having just driven from sea level to 8600 feet on little sleep so I was happy that I wasn’t leading that start.  Cliff helped us out by clipping the single bolt that protected the start, and Eileen cruised up the rest of the pitch.

I seconded and discovered that the belay station was actually below the intimidating overhang I originally thought was part of the first pitch.  Once I was clipped into the anchor, Eileen told me she wasn’t feeling up to leading the overhang and was considering our options.  I thought about it a bit and realized I was feeling good enough to take the lead despite sucking pretty badly at overhangs normally. Cleaning the first pitch gave me a chance to warm up and get my lead head on, and I was surprisingly calm and relaxed.

I pulled a bomber low hold and was up in the crack of the overhang.  Leaning in, I placed a cam and clipped in.  I was at an awkward, half sideways angle, and I couldn’t seem to get my hand set in the fist crack.  I could feel myself tensing up and my breathing start to get a bit harsh.  Oh, hello, Fear… nice to see you again.  I dropped my head, closed my eyes, and told myself to breathe deeply and relax my shoulders.  My head cleared, and I realized I could turn my left leg for solid knee bar.  With my leg set I was able to reach at full extension high above me on the left to a massive hold.  When I stretched to match with my other hand, suddenly my legs swung out, and I was dangling by my hands with absolutely nothing under me!

Surprisingly I didn't feel any fear…just pure exhilaration! I whooped and laughed, swung my right leg out to stem the wide crack, and then I was up and over.  I set up an anchor so I could bring Eileen over the roof before going on to make communication easier.  After she was set up, I lead the easy, wide crack with lots of knobby footholds on the face.  I missed the recommended belay ledge and stopped to build an anchor for a hanging belay.  Once Eileen was standing on the belay ledge below me, I told her I needed to fix the anchor because the angle of my hanging belay was killing my back.  A little rope and anchor fussing and then Eileen was up next to me.  She led the next, very cool finger crack (I definitely want to go back to lead that pitch) and I finished up the easy final roped pitch.  Eileen and I relaxed and snacked on some cheese and bread while waiting for Vina and Cliff to join us.  The four of us headed up the 4th class (with one 5th class move) to the top of the dome and were greeted with a breathtaking view, faintly tinged pink by the setting sun.  We rappelled down to find that Jamie and Peter had graciously brought my backpack over to the bottom of the rappel so we could put our shoes on for the headlamp-lit hike back to the cars.

Getting to climb with Eileen was incredibly awesome - I hadn't expected to be so comfortable climbing with someone I'd basically just met, but I didn't get wigged out or worried at any point.  I also loved meeting her friends and climbing partners who were super cool and fun, and  I hope to climb with Peter the next time he visits family in the Bay Area.  Even though I didn't get home until 3am, the day in Tuolumne was so totally worth the drive and exhaustion (It was a full 24 hour adventure!). I would definitely do it again if given the chance (I'm looking at you, @katiebeth!)

Picasa album of Tuolumne photos

Eileen's trip report about the same day

Donner Pass, July 19, 2009.

Jeff, Jeremy and I had planned on climbing on Sunday the 19th but hadn't picked a location yet.  I was still high from my trip to Tuolumne and was jonesing for more granite, but Jeff suggested another day at Castle Rock.  I was bummed but willing to go there if that's what the guys really wanted.  I told them that Donner Pass had multi-pitch trad on granite, cooler weather, and was only 3 hours away but that I'd be happy to go wherever they wanted to, of course.  =) They, being awesome climbing partners, did not disappoint me and were happy to climb somewhere new.

An early morning start, a minor mix up at Jeff's pick up location, and then we were on interstate 80 driving eastbound towards the Sierras.  At some point I had Jeff switch to driving because I needed more sleep, but the trip was quick and painless with no traffic.  When we got to the exit for Sugar Bowl ski resort, we were greeted by a policeman who told us that the road was closed for a triathalon after the Sugar Bowl entrance.  What the heck? It never crossed my mind to check for local events that would close the roads!  Luckily the crag we were shooting for, Schoolhouse Rock, was only a quarter mile or so beyond where traffic was stopped so we parked the car and hiked over.

I wanted Jeff and Jeremy to get a chance to take turns on lead since I'd just climbed in Tuolumne. I figured I'd just have a relaxing, top rope day.  We picked Junior High to start and Jeremy volunteered to lead first.  We opted for the straight start rather than the easier start off to the left that traversed across.  Jeremy started up but got hung up on a bulging, awkward section that required commitment to stick.  After giving it a few tries, and checking out different options, Jeremy came down and had Jeff switch to lead.  I sat in the shade of a giant flake and relaxed while I waited for Jeff and Jer to finish the pitch so I could follow.  I think at one point I even fell into a light sleep...ahh summer days.

We'd forgotten to bring another rope for the 2nd climber to trail up so the guys had to throw the end of the rope down for me.  It's a bit trickier than you might think to actually get the rope to land where you want it to, especially when the breeze would gust up.  Luckily it only took 2 tries to get the rope down to me.  I cruised up to the anchor whereupon Jeff asked me if I wanted to lead the next pitch.  I blinked a bit in surprise since I had expected Jeremy to take over but said I'd be happy to lead.  I took the rack and led the pitch with no problems.  Jeff then took the lead for the last pitch.

Next we decided to head over to the Green Phantom Rock to mess around with sport lead and top ropes.  When we got there, we met some climbers from the SF Bay Area who were just relaxing at the top of the crag.  The passed out some cupcakes (yes, I ate one) and pointed out the anchors for the different routes. (I've met some seriously nice climbers outdoors....)

We set up a top rope for the Phantom Staircase, which consisted of 3 slab climbs from 5.8 through 5.10.  Jeff and I climbed the 5.10 while Jeremy climbed both the 9 and the 10.  I switched over to lead Road Kill, a short route with an intimidating start (bad fall if you don't stick it).  Jeff climbed it after me and then we packed up to go back to the Practice Slabs below Schoolhouse Rock so Jeremy could practice placing gear. While I was belaying Jeremy, Jeff went over to a local bar to get some post-climb beers for us.  At the end of the day, we sat at the Donner Lake overlook to sort gear while drinking cold beers and watching the sun set over the summit.  Gotta love lazy summer weekends with friends.

Picasa album of Donner Pass photos

Reflections

Sometimes I think I'm a little crazy and obsessed with climbing, but I think I can live with this kind of crazy.